Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Randy, Baltimore Orioles (and Orchard Orioles) come to my hummingbird feeder, which is on my back deck railing, close to where my cage worm feeder is. I have had them come there about 4 years now and love seeing up close these beautiful birds. I have the feeders stabilized so that they can’t tip them & empty them so quickly!
Love the photo, too, Lubricator – but Tammy beat me to that mention of the wooden post. I was also curious why the bluebirds were interested in that box because it is not out in the open like they usually prefer. Are we missing something here? But, anyways, congrats on the babies. Even if the post is vinyl a coon could probably climb right up that railing. Maybe it is possible to install some kind of baffle under that box to keep them safe?
I have always taken in my SEED feeders (located in the middle of my large backyard) in early spring, otherwise my winter birds (juncos & white crowned sparrows, etc) would never want to leave and I definitely would have more HOSP. I leave my cage suet/worm feeder up for the bluebirds, which is on my house back deck railing. If I had bears around, though, I definitely would not leave any food/seed around for them!!! I guess a lot depends on what birds you want to feed – I enjoy all birds but definitely will cater to my bluebirds by feeding them. I DO NOT overfeed them, however – only give them a few worms at a time, like a treat, and a little more when they have babies to feed. But I truly believe they need to learn and be able to hunt for themselves.
Dale, you really don’t want a pole that high – it would be almost impossible to monitor. PLUS, when you mention a “pole”, don’t know if you mean wooden or otherwise, but of course, wood poles are definitely a no-no if possible. Sure, there are plenty of those out there, but think about the predators (coons, snakes, cats, etc.) that can climb right up that wooden pole and grab your babies or eggs. Think hard about it – maybe you can come up with a better rig. Good luck. Like Tammy says, 5 feet to hold entrance is recommended & seems to work good.
Crazy, crazy! Sure hope they survive – do you think you need to put insulation around the box to keep it warmer? You would just put the foam directly against the wood, not with spacers like you do when trying to keep the heat OUT. I have done this before when I had eggs, not babies, and it turned unusually cold. I even wrapped the foam in plastic to keep it warmer. If I remember correctly, they did survive a pretty cold spell, eggs that is, not babies. Best of luck.
We had temps in the upper 20’s the past few nights, but tonight is supposed to be just above freezing and then warm up some next week.I Use Cher’s (our original Bluebird Nut administrator) peanut butter suet recipe and they (& others) have always loved it, ONCE they know there are no more worms. Her recipe:
1 cup real lard, 1 cup crunchy peanut butter – melt together in microwave.
Then add 1/3 cup sugar (stir to dissolve), 2 cups oatmeal, 2 cups yellow corn meal & 1 cup wheat flour. Mix all together – it will be fairly stiff. Let cool enough to crumble into about pea size. I keep in fridge & take out about 1/2 cup each morning & feed. Other birds love this, too, so I use my cage feeder to exclude larger birds. But before I had one I just put out enough after my blues were there & ready to eat.I do not get on Facebook – think it is just too fake & risky. My opinion. (I used to follow my family but something unacceptable happened and I said NO MORE!)
Evie, PLEASE don’t give up your blues yet – try what Tammy suggested you do to see if it helps. Ultimately you will have to make your own decision on this delicate matter. The nesting/hatching of your bluebirds would be so enjoyable for you, but we do need to remember to protect them as best we can.
Evie, I too struggled with this situation when I first hosted blues, which was 9 seasons ago. It didn’t take me very long before I realized the threat they were to the blues & other native birds – they are smart and relentless about taking over a box. I totally agree with Tammy that they must be removed if you are going to have boxes up. I believe a temporary solution for you might be to move your boxes as far apart as possible & let the HOSP keep busy with one box, taking out their nesting material and NOT letting them lay eggs, or at least not hatching any. This way maybe the blues will have a chance. A spooker is only put up after the blues have laid their 1st egg, or it might deter the blues from laying and the HOSP just get accustomed to it. Sorry you had such a bad year last year, but this is why we have to monitor our boxes and protect them after we invite them into our yards. But, I totally understand what you are going through. We squash bugs, flies, mice, & other pests, and the HOSP are definitely in that category! Thank about it.
Scot, you need to trap & dispose of those HOSP – they will just keeping back. I would close the box up, then when the HOSP have truly claimed it (you will see both male & female go in & out) you need to set the VanErt in-box trap. This has to be monitored very closely, especially if the blues are still around. If the HOSP go ahead & begin a nest is really the best time to trap them. This is a never-ending battle you must be willing to fight to be successful with the blues. If you unplug all the box holes, the blues will still be able to claim one, and you can use the one for trapping the HOSP. This usually works very well, using one box for trapping. Good luck.
P.S. we here in Mid-Missouri had 70+ degrees for about a week or more too but it has turned cold again and forecast is for below freezing one night next week.I’m with Tammy – it is too early for eggs yet, unless POSSIBLY in the lower southern states. Eggs/babies cannot withstand extremely cool weather. One or two years I have my blues’ early eggs turn out to be no good because of extreme cool snaps.
Ellen, welcome – it is great that you have bluebirds so soon after moving. Like Tammy says, it is very common for the blues to build a nest, or even just begin one, and then quit for a time. It is all about their “internal instinct” about when it is the right time for nesting. I don’t believe the baffle you are talking about would deter snakes, but I will let Tammy comment on that, as I don’t know too much about them. P.S. My blues actually have built 2 or even 3 complete nests in different boxes the past few years before choosing one. I know it is the same pair as I have watched them go from one to the other!
I for one do take my seed feeder down during the summer, and I still have plenty of birds around, at least as many as I want. My time & efforts are put into my bluebirds (& TRES and possibly BCCH this year) and keeping HOSP out of their nests. I would have tons more HOSP if I continued feeding the BOSS, which they are supposed not to like!
Here is picture of my heat shield – notice the spacers between the shied & box, about 3/4″ at least needs to be. I put a shield on the top, south & west sides of box where the heat is most intense & I have no natural shade whatsoever on these boxes, and I believe my setup really needs this heat shield. Of course, the rig on the top is my sparrow spooker.
Dale, don’t know where you are located, but there are some people who do paint the BB house white – however, I do believe the birds prefer natural wood color. Then, in the heat of the summer you can put on a heat shield to keep it cooler, and I personally believe this shield, when done properly, would keep it slightly cooler than a box painted white, but I’m not sure. My heat shields are made of Styrofoam with spacers between the box & the foam, which is absolutely necessary! There was someone on this site who did studies on the difference temps between a dark house & white one. When my cedar houses aged too dark (after about 4/5 years) I put them in a 5 gallon pail of bleach water (maybe 1/2 cup of bleach in the 5 gallon water) for about 15-20 minutes and they came out looking like new. Of course, I did this after nesting season and rinsed them out very well before putting back up.
